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Richard Ammon. While the avenue is divided by a wide promenade full of trees that provide welcome shade in the hot summer months, most pedestrians prefer to stroll along the sidewalks on either side of the street. Lined with restaurants, banks, movie theaters, high-rise hotels, and shops, these sidewalks offer a perfect vista for people-watching. I learned early on in my tenure as a visiting professor of English at a Tunisian university that the best place from which to enjoy the crowd is a seat on the terrace of one of the many cafes. Cafes are among the only public places where men and women, Tunisians and tourists, all gather and mingle. But because Tunisia is a Muslim country, and only foreigners are allowed to drink alcohol on a terrace. Most cafes are gender-segregated, the majority being places where local men go to drink coffee, smoke tobacco from a hookah, play cards, and network-a vitally important activity in a country where jobs can be scarce.

Instead of simply ignoring him, this time, I scolded him in Frenchsaying that I was old enough to be his father.

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I then asked him what o ther Tunisians would think of me-and him-had they seen us together sitting at a cafe. He apologized. The absence of free speech in Tunisia is such that everyone wats and listens to everyone else discreetly but carefully, and people are especially conscious of interactions between Tunisians and Westerners.

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How one dresses, speaks, and interacts with others is always a matter of public scrutiny. Tunisians are very proud of their multicultural heritage. Berbers, Greeks, Carthaginians, Jews, Romans, Byzantine Christians, Arabs, Italians, the French-all settled at various times in Tunisia. Consequently, to be publicly humiliated in front of a Westerner constitutes a special loss of face. One of my colleagues at the university, now a grandfather, once confided to me that, in his youth and even young adulthood, he had in fact had sex with other men-even Jews!

10 Surprising Facts About Tunisia

Afraid of where the conversation might lead, I never disclosed to him my gay identity. In addition, I also had two Tunisian friends who self-identified as gay.

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One had been educated in the U. Him not his real namea man who looks far younger than his fifty years, is married to a woman, a famous Tunisian actress, whom I believe is a lesbian. His homosexuality, along with his antipathy for religion of any kind and his awareness of the many ironies of his role as a university professor in a police state, had left him, if not exactly jaded, at least world-weary from a lifetime of knowing, but never being able to say out loud, that the emperor has no clothes.

When the two of us took a walk down the avenue, however, Nizar noticed the way people looked at us-as if I was paying for his company. Sometimes, vendors would even try, in Arabic, to enlist his aid in selling me something at a price far lower than what a non-tourist would pay.

While living in Tunisia, I had a visit from a Parisian friend, Jacques, who had no qualms about renting hustlers. As a result of his visit, I learned of another cafe on the avenue, one even more active than the Cafe de Paris.

At this cafe, where Jacques me t his rent boy, I saw what I would identify as the only visible signs of a gay identity that I saw: some young men conducting surveys about safer sex practices. I was amazed that, as repressive as the Tunisian government is, and as far into denial of its underground economies, apparently someone in public health had authorized this survey.

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Such a sur vey would never have been distributed, had it not been approved by someone in power. Via Jacques, I also learned of a hammam that caters primarily to men looking for sex with other men.

In Muslim cultures, where ritual cleanliness is practiced and there are strict rules related to personal hygiene, hammams or steam baths are both public bathing facilities and places for people of the same sex to relax and socialize.

Located just inside the medina, this particular hammam was apparently an open secret tolerated by the Tunisian police, undoubtedly because it catered to tourists and most likely paid bribes.

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Jacques told me that during his visit, one of the customers-a non-Tunisian Arab-openly bragged of wanting sex with other men. Others, including the staff, were more discrete, offering massages. As Tunisians always wear a swimming suit or underwear at the hammam, I had a hard time imagining how or where the sex actually managed to take place.

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One of my female Tunisian colleagues, someone to whom I had never come out, sent me an e-mail recently. She had read an essay of mine on-line, a story I had written about a previous trip to Tunisia-one during which I was hustled by a Tunisian who left me both broken-hearted and several hundred dollars poorer. She wanted to tell me that she found my essay moving and that my being gay was not an issue for her.

She was particularly concerned that when I return for a visit I not become a victim of violence, as foreign gays can be targeted.

Every once in a while you read in the French press of a tryst gone bad, usually involving a Westerner who is at first very generous with his money but eventually stops paying. I was really toud by her willingness to discuss what to even a highly intelligent and educated woman must be a difficult matter, given the realities of Tunisian society.

One of the most difficult things to covey to my American friends is the complexity of Tunisian culture. Homosexuality, Tunisian Style Richard Ammon. Recent Reports Gay Life in Bhutan read more Gay Venezuela read more Gay Life in Bermuda read more.

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